Monday 10 June

We get up early to meet the harbour master at 8:00am.  He finds us.  He thinks we are fine where we are berthed, but we have to move at high water tomorrow.  He seems friendly and has a few words of English, so between us we just about work out what is going on.

There is a lot of work to do today.  First the sails come off.  Then all the lines come out of the deck fittings and get hanked together on the mast.  We are dismantling half the boat.  The kicker and track are now gone.  Finally Richard takes off the boom.  The boat is beginning to look very strange.

The harbourmaster’s mate comes along to confirm what we have to do to take the mast off tomorrow. This involves removing all the split pins from the rigging in readiness to take all the shrouds and stays off.  Richard thinks he needs to buy more tools to do this, but I remind him that he has a multitool and it does the job of a narrow pliers and small screwdriver.

The worst job is the electrics.  We have taken a load of photos so we have some idea how the wires go back.  But there is one wire with an end that will not go through the hole in the deck.  It is the radio co-axial cable.  In the end we have to cut it off.  The harbourmaster tells us that it is standard to cut the wire and solder it back when the mast goes back on.

While Richard is doing all the split pins I go out to do some shopping.  I manage to get tape to tape up the bits to the mast in a little ironmonger’s.  Quite a feat in French.  I also find a fishmonger that will be open tomorrow.  So I may be able to get Richard a lobster for his birthday after all.

By 6:00pm we are just about finished.  So we make our way to the showers and finally join the land of the living!  We have also finally arranged the transport of the mast and boom.  They can’t collect it until first thing on Thursday morning, so it looks like we will be here another day and will get our posh dinner on Wednesday night!

The harbourmaster came to see us later this afternoon.  We are not moving first thing in the morning after all.  So we are not sure when the mast will come down, but it is not a worry.  We have all day tomorrow and Wendesday!

We shall fall asleep quickly tonight I guess.

Sunday 9 June

We have a leisurely morning because we can’t leave for Pauillac until after lunch in order to catch the strong tide going up river.  After a fasting day we go beserk and buy croissants and pain au chocolat and quiches for lunch.  Naughty but nice.  Our French neighbour is also going this afternoon and we shall probably see him in Pauillac.

The weather is still iffy, but it is bright and not too cold.  We don’t stop for fuel in Royan because the book says that there is fuel in Pauillac and we will be there for a few days.  Also we find there is a two star Michelin restaurant in the town.  Regrettably it is not open on Tuesdays, when it will be Richard’s birthday.  But we book for Wednesday night because it seems unlikely we can leave before Thursday especially if we wait until our mast is loaded on the lorry to go south.

The trip to Pauillac goes well.  The weather is brightening and the current is stronger than we expected, so we get there sooner than we thought.  The only problem is the debris in the sea.  The books warned about this, but it is worse than expected.  There are large logs floating in the river and tons of small twigs and bits of tree.  As we get to the harbour the next disaster strikes.  We are trying to find a visitor spot, but they seem limited on the pontoons that the books say we should go on.  We try one space but it is hopeless.  As we try another the bow thruster gives up!  I am not sure how I got off the boat and managed to get it in the space, but I did.  Then as I struggled to tie up nice Frenchman helped and we found we were tied up.  Well, that was one problem solved, but it does not solve the problem of the bow thruster.  We can’t manoeuver the boat in tight places without it.  That means we cannot go down the canals until it is fixed!  I am very worried about this.

Richard tries to find the harbourmaster, but the office is shut.  We can’t find any of the services the book says should be here.  There is no sign of toilets or showers and there is no fuel pontoon where the book says it should be.  Fuel could turn out to be another problem.  The pontoons are old and rickety and there are literally tons of wood debris all over the place.

To make us feel better we decide a drink is in order.  We try the Pineau we bought it La Rochelle and that helps a bit.  Richard then decides we should walk in to town to try to get a glass of the good local wine.  We wander around a bit and find that nothing much is open on a Sunday night.  However we do find a nice little cave.  We go in and the lady is lovely explaining to us is slow French all about her wines.  She specializes in small vineyards that do the local fine wines, but are not internationally known and hence are much cheaper.  It seems a better idea to buy a bottle, so we buy a Pauillac from a minor chateau - La Fleur Peyrabon - and take it back to the boat.  There I make us dinner and we try the wine.  The first glass is a bit harsh, but it really needed more time to aerate. 

After we have tried to cheer ourselves up, Richard speaks to Nigel Gee and mentions the bow thruster problem.  Nigel asks if the problem is with both sides.  Richard can’t remember if he tried both directions.  So he goes up and tries again.  At first nothing works and then all of a sudden the thruster works on both sides!  We both feel so much better!  Also the wine has softened and we are both now very relaxed.  Tomorrow the sails come off.

Saturday 8 June

Richard is spending the morning reading the instruction brochures for the mast and boom, working out how to dismantle them.  I have to press him into action to get to the market to provision.  There is only a tiny supermarket here, so making the market is important if we are to have food on board to go - WHERE?

We are fasting today, so that makes shopping hard.  We make it to the market and buy just about all we need just in time.  In fact, we buy our local oysters for dinner as the stallholder comes with his van to breakdown the stall!

We have had no evidence of the high predicted winds, but the weather is rotten as expected.  It has been raining most of the night and the day is punctuated by very heavy showers.  But there is one ray of light.  Richard has had a reply to his e-mail to Nigel who has reassured him about what has to be done to take down the mast and he has now decided that we are going to go through the canals.  So at least we know what we are doing.  The plan it to go to Pauillac tomorrow.  The harbour master there will help us with the mast provisionally to take it down on Tuesday.  The shipper will give us a quote on Monday with a view to collecting the mast on Wednesday.  So that is the plan.

In the afternoon, when the rain abates a little we take a further walk in to town.  After going to three chandlers we finally find the proper pilot book for the canals we are going on.  We may have lift-off.  

Friday 7 June

We leave La Rochelle at 6:30am!  It starts out as a beautiful morning.  The sun is coming up in a clear sky and the light on the towers as we leave is lovely.  After breakfast I put my head down for a little over and hour.  By the time I get back in the cockpit the sky has clouded over and it is not nearly such a nice day.  Furthermore the coastguard are broadcasting force 7 winds gusting higher for 5pm today!  Richard is determined we should make it to Royan, which is 50 miles away, before the bad weather comes in.  So although we have the sails up we are motoring pretty hard to keep up 6 knots.

The weather has deteriorated and when Richard goes below to have a rest, it even starts to rain a little.  But the showers pass and the day settles in to slightly cloudy and virtually no wind and a glassy sea.  It seems impossible that really bad weather is coming.  But we did leave La Rochelle because rain was forecast for Saturday, so perhaps that is not such a surprise.

So we carry on.  At one stage Richard decides to go off course across what is supposed to be a very shallow bit to save a couple of miles.  That was a mistake.  The conditions seemed perfect, but the sea has a terrible swell and we are coasting down 2 metre waves in only 4 metres of water!  Later Richard finds that our more up to date pilot book says never take this short cut!  But we survive unharmed and arrive at the marina just after lunchtime.  The weather is now warm and sunny and we have a nice alongside berth.  Just after we come in a French boat that we passed on the way also comes in.  I’m sure we saw him in La Rochelle.  He asks if we are going on through the canals, and to my shock Richard says yes!

So now I am all confused about what we are doing.  After months of saying he did not want to take the mast down, Richard is changing his mind.  The real point is that if we go around the outside we will not make it to the Med this year.  It is a very long way and we have spent more time than planned getting this far.

So Richard spends the afternoon asking people who can dismantle the mast and ship it.  He speaks to a shipper.  The Frenchman on the boat in front of us is carrying his own mast.  He has done the canal 4 times before!  We are working ourselves up into a frenzy about how to do this.  Richard finally e-mails Nigel Gee for some more advice.  

After a dinner of fish curry we both fall into bed, but find it difficult to sleep because we are still worried about how to deal with the mast.

Thursday 6 June

It is summer!  The sun is shinning brightly and the temperature is predicted to be 28C!  So it is on with the shorts and sleeveless t-shirts.  We are still not sure when we will leave.  My research into Royan does not show that there are any launderettes near the harbour, so we decide to do laundry.  

Doing laundry while on the boat is always a bit of a challenge.  Today it was strange in many ways.  Firstly the launderette was incredibly busy and we had to wait for a machine to come available.  Secondly and most weirdly, we met a New Zealand couple there.  They are travelling around France mainly by public transport and what was weird is that they met Sue and Nigel Gee on the train last week!  I can’t believe what a small world this is!  I’m beginning to feel something odd is going on.  Finally the experience was odd because we had two down and outs in the launderette, one of whom was carrying all his worldly goods in a wheelie bin and washing them!

It is well past lunchtime when we finally finish the washing (and drying which took the longest and we still had to hang the towels out to dry).  After a light lunch with leftovers, we go off to explore the towers.  Only two are open, but they are very interesting, and cooler than outside.

Back to the boat.  We stock up on stuff for lunch tomorrow because in the light of the weather forecast which is for rain on Saturday we have decided to go to Royan tomorrow.  At the boat it is very hot so we finally put up our new bimini for real.  It is very effective until the sun goes down low enough to go under it.  

Then for our real treat.  Dinner at Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau.  It is a beautiful place right on the beach with all the tables facing the sea.  The food is wonderful.  We have the degustation menu with langoustines cooked three ways, their signature lobster dish, mains (lamb for me, turbot for R) and desert.  I thought the deserts were a bit of a disappointment, but the rest was divine.  There were four amuse bouches, if you count the chocolate petit fours with coffee!

So now back at the boat sated and hot.  Hope we can sleep.  We have an early start in the morning with a 50-mile trip to complete!

Tuesday 6 June

It has been days since I updated this log.  No real reason.  Just lazy.  We left Ile De Groix on the 30^th to go to Port Haliguen on the Quiberon peninsular.  As far as I can remember the weather started to cheer up and we had an easy downwind sail and motor.  The reason for going there is to meet up with Sue and Nigel Gee who own a Southerly 135 they are bringing back after three years in the Med.  We have been in touch with them regularly getting hints about what to do and where to go.

When we arrive in port we see them immediately.  Surprisingly they have just arrived back at the boat today (from their e-mails, we thought they were arriving yesterday).  We have a nice evening with them, walking in to town and I finally get my seafood platter.  Not the best in the world but it hits the spot after waiting so long

On 31^st May we set off for Pornichet at La Baule.  The weather is improving all the time.  We have light following winds and use the cruising chute most of the day.  That is quite exciting.  We also put the fishing line out.  We caught a fish, but it was a very small mackerel, so we threw it back.  When we arrive in port the Harbour office is closed, but there is a Harbour Service boat.  We have put ourselves on a very tight and uncomfortable hammerhead, so the Service Boat finds us a proper finger pontoon.  It is a very tight fit, and a short finger but much better.  We want to stay for two days.  I would like to get to have dinner at the one Michelin rosette restaurant, but when we phone for the next night they are fully booked.  Not surprising really.  We book into the restaurant in the smartest hotel in town instead.  

Next day we go to Pornichet market which is marvelous.  I am sort of sorry we have booked to eat out, as the fish market is particularly good.  We buy a lot of stuff to keep us going for the next few days.  I am surprised that I managed to stow it all on board.

We have had an e-mail from Jean and Tony who we met in Benodet.  They are in Port Haliguen and have also seen Sue and Nigel.  Apparently the Gees were their neighbours in Hythe Marina Village!  What a small world it is.

After lunch on board, we make our way into La Baule, using the Petit Train.  It is quite hot and sunny and there are lots of people on the beach and even a few hearty souls in the sea!

After a little walk disaster strikes.  I come over all weak and light-headed for no reason.  We stop at a café and I have some water, but I feel no better.  After a little shopping trip, where I buy a lemon juicer I realize I have a really badly upset stomach.  The long and the short of it is that I am really ropy for nearly three days.  I can’t make it to dinner in La Baule.  I am now glad we didn’t get reservations for the really good restaurant.  After 14 hours sleep I make the sail to Ile D’Yeu.  I just about am compos mentis, but I can’t eat at all.  We see Tony and Jean there, but as I am feeling unwell, don’t socialize. 

On 2 June I am still feeling a bit odd, but seem a little better.  We sail to Sables D’Olonne.  We have a really good wind and are going well, but it is very cold, or at least I am feeling the cold.  We arrive in lovely sunny conditions and are put on a nice pontoon not far from the facilities.  I have tried to eat a bit today.  I even had some bread and pate under way.  So I am determined to get better.

Richard goes to all the local engineers to see if he can find anyone to fix the sprayhood and the heating.  No luck with the heating, but he does find someone to sew up the sprayhood by tomorrow!

We go to the supermarket to buy food.  I was going to make escalopes a limone, but I don’t fancy the acidity.  But I am determined to eat a real dinner.  My clothes are hanging off me.  So I buy the necessary and make Veal Parmigiana.  Well, that turns out to be a disaster.  Within 20 minutes of finishing the meal and I am in agony with tummy gripes and then spend the next two hours on the toilet!  Not nice.  Sometime after midnight my tum settles down sufficiently for me to sleep!  I may have to find a doctor tomorrow.

This morning when I wake up I feel surprisingly better.  I am going to be very careful with what I eat today and hope this bug is finally going away.  As I recover Richard finds a heating engineer who says he can come and look at the system at 8:00am tomorrow morning.  So that is good.  In the meantime Richard is finally reading all the instruction booklets that came with the heating system.  Guess what - he finds out what is wrong.  On the last page of the book we are least likely to read, because it says it is installation instructions, it says that to clear air blockages in the fuel system turn the heat up to maximum.  So he does that and, yes the system works!  We cancel the engineer’s visit.  That’s two out of three repairs done.

After a light lunch we go into town.  We have a nice walk around.  Richard has an ice cream.  I daren’t even have a lick.  On the way home I am feeling much better, but oops, now Richard is getting sick.  He too has the runs.  We were going to play bridge with Tony and Jean tonight, but I think that will be off.  One good thing.  We have got the sprayhood back, and the repair is great and we have reassembled it all.  

I send Richard off to get some fish for supper.  He comes back with a tiny sea bass, but perhaps that is best as he really is poorly now.  As I type, he has gone to sleep on the bunk.  I’m not convinced we will move tomorrow!   By the way, the sun is out and it is warm.  I have even put on a pair of shorts!     

We have our very light supper and both feel better.  So we will probably go tomorrow after all.

Wednesday 5 June

We set out just before 10:00am in lovely sunshine and light winds.  The forecast was for the wind to northeast, so it would be on the beam starting as a 4, but going down to 2 knots by 2:00pm.  The wind strength was as predicted, but the direction wrong.  It was nearly a beat in the morning and by afternoon what very little there was was on the nose most of the time.  Anyway, we had to motor.  We tried to fish, but caught nothing and lost the lures on our new line.

As we approached Il de Re, Richard did some calculations and found that because of the times of the high tides, there would be no bridge opening tomorrow and maybe one at 6:30am on Friday.  So we could get stuck in St Martin for 3 days.  With that information we decide to go straight to La Rochelle.  Richard finds there is a Michelin 2 rosette restaurant in the town.  He phones and gets us reservations for tomorrow! 

It is a lovely afternoon as we enter the old harbour.  It is exciting to enter between the two medieval towers.  We are finally in new cruising area for us.  We find a nice place on the visitor pontoon just at the waterfront.  It is all beautiful and for once I finally feel like we are on holiday!  The Harbour Master finds us and tells us we are fine where we are (despite being next to a no mooring sign!).  The only problem is that the toilet block is ever so far away.  I guess half an mile walk, because we have to go all around the harbour to get there.  Who cares, we’ll use the facilities on board.

We change into shorts, it is really hot and sunny, and take a walk in to town.  We stop at the Bureau de Port and find that for 1 Euro a day we can have internet access.  The fee is 60 Euros, but if we like we can stay a third night for free.  We’ll see.  We would like to be here three days, but we are also anxious to get going south. In town we sus the place out and buy a bottle of Pineau, being in the area.

We are both feeling better and dinner of my Ratatouille, couscous and Mergez, proves our stomachs will be up to dinner tomorrow. Hurray!

So to bed.  It is noisy but we get to sleep.