Sunday 15 September 2013

Saturday 14 September


Up at a reasonable time and over to the Harbour office to pay.  It is a beautiful day.  The sky is the most startling blue, but it is cool.  We want to go to Cassis.  So sometime after 9:30 am we phone them and they say they will be able to tell us if there is a berth available after 10:30.  So we just sit in the sun in the cockpit for the time being.  Richard has found an alternative port to go to and both are close by, so we are not in any hurry.  At 10:30 we ring again and they say they will not have a berth.  However Richard asks if there would be space for us to come in just for lunch.  They say we can do that as long as we vacate any berth by 2:00pm.  So it seems at least we will get to see Cassis.  In the meantime Richard does reserve us a berth at the next port, so we shall be alright for the night.  The next port is only 10 miles away, so we will get there in good time late this afternoon.

We set off to Cassis.  It is literally just around the corner, so there is no purpose in putting up any sail.  The town in set on a lovely bay.  We make our way into the harbour.  No wonder they have no space.  It is quite small and full of motor boats, all seemingly resident.  We cannot see anyone to tell us where to go and again no one responds to the VHF.  So I wind up telephoning them and they tell us to go to the fuel pontoon.  There is a large commercial boat at the fuel pontoon, but it quickly leaves.  So we tie up, with not too much trouble.  We guess that while we are here we might as well fill up.  The fuel gage is still not working.  Despite what the electrician in Cap D’Agde said, it is definitely stuck on full.  We have used over 30 engine hours and it hasn’t budged.  We are met by the Harbour staff in their work boat and taken to a berth.  We tell them that we are told we must vacate the berth by 2:00pm, but they say that isn’t necessary and we can stay the night.  Apparently the occupant just left and decided not to come back!  So yippee, we are here in Cassis, probably for two nights in the light of the bad weather forecast for Sunday.

Our berth is a very odd one.  To look at us, you would say that we are on a hammerhead berth, but as there are no finger pontoons, what we are is tied to the concrete end of the pontoon.  There is a forward line to keep us from moving backwards and we are snuggled next to a classic looking wooden sailing boat.  It is a little tricky getting on and off the boat, but I can manage, so that’s OK.

First job to do once we are securely tied on is to telephone the one Michelin Rosette restaurant in the town (the Villa Madie) and try to get a reservation for dinner tonight.  Much to our surprise we get in.  Then we check in at the port, connect to electricity and go to look  around the town.  We should be doing our basic shopping, but everything is closed for lunch.  We do find a good bakery and manage to buy bread for lunch.  We have pate that wants eating up and after all, we don’t want to eat too much if we are going out for a slap up dinner.

The harbour is in the middle of the town and is surrounded by restaurants and bars.  The main shopping street goes up the hill from the middle of the harbour.  After lunch we have a good look around.  There is a great ice cream shop and a few little supermarkets.  I manage to buy most of the basics that we need.  I think I have even found an edible muesli, but we shall see when I try it.

The day is so beautiful that we decide to spend the afternoon on the beach.  It too is right near the harbour and not far for me to walk.  We take our chairs and books and set out.  The position of the beach is fine, but it is pebbly and not terribly comfortable.  Also the water is really cold.  The sign at the life station says it is 20C, but I find that very hard to believe.  Despite being quite hot neither R or I can get in past our ankles!

We really like this place and are pleased to be here, but we dread to think how expensive it will be.  They charge extra for everything.  The water and electricity you use are monitored.  If we want to use their shower it will cost 2 Euro each!  In the circumstances we will shower on board.  There is free WIFI, but it is only accessible from the Harbour Office.  Even our aerial won’t pick it up.  There is also free WIFI at the tourist office just at the end of the pontoon.  But again, only available for the office when it is open.  But at least we can get some connection.  There is no Orange store in the town, so we still can’t top our gizmo up! 

So we shower on board and dress to go to dinner.  The restaurant is at the far end of the town, so it is a bit of walk for me, but it is lovely.  We have their local special cocktail (champagne with apple, cinnamon, and Cointreau) on the terrace overlooking the bay as the sun goes down.  Perfect.  We eat their fixed menu.  6 (small) courses.  We start with a lobster dish cooked with ceps, lovely.  Then monkfish in tandoori spices, followed by sea bass.  The fish is cooked so perfectly.  Just cooked through.  Finally we have a fillet of veal with girolles.  Again cooked perfectly.  Cheese is sort of whipped goats cheese with slices of pastry and desert is a fresh fig concoction.  We really enjoined it.   With it we drink a very local wine recommended by the Sommelier.  It is a Clos Sainte Magdeleine Bel Arme, Provence Cassis, 2012.  Very pleasant.  We walk back, I think I must have overdone it today.  My knee aches.

Back to the boat for coffee and fall into bed.  I have had too much to drink!

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